Your consumer unit (most people still call it the “fuse box”) is the hub of your home's electrical system. It distributes power to circuits and trips them off if there's a fault. Modern units provide far better protection than older ones — particularly around earth leakage faults, which are the leading cause of electrical fires and shocks.
If your consumer unit has rewireable fuses, no RCD protection, or is showing signs of age (scorch marks, smell, cracked plastic), it's overdue for replacement. The 18th Edition wiring regulations effectively require RCD protection on every circuit in the house — older units typically have one (or none).
The £550 price covers a typical 8-12 way replacement: rip out old, fit new MK / Hager / Wylex unit, RCBO per circuit, full test, certificate. Larger or more complex installs (more circuits, splitting tails, surge protection) are quoted after a brief survey.
How it works
Common questions
Why are RCBOs better than RCDs?
An RCD covers multiple circuits — if one trips, several go off. An RCBO protects a single circuit, so a fault in the kitchen doesn't take out your hallway lights at the same time. More expensive but the standard for modern installs.
Do I need to upgrade if my old box still works?
Not legally — but if it lacks RCD protection and you ever do work that triggers a Building Control notification (extension, kitchen rewire, etc.), they'll insist. Better to do it on your terms than be forced into it.
What about my old wiring — is that safe with a new unit?
A good question. The new unit provides modern protection but can't fix faulty wiring downstream. We test every circuit during the install — if anything fails the test, we'll tell you what's wrong and what it'd cost to remediate. Sometimes a partial rewire makes more sense than just changing the unit.
Will my appliances still work?
Yes. Consumer unit replacement doesn't change anything about how your circuits behave. Some old appliances with degraded insulation can nuisance-trip new RCBOs (because they're more sensitive than old fuses) — if that happens, the appliance is the problem, not the unit.
How long without power?
Typically 4-6 hours total. Smaller units quicker, larger ones longer. We coordinate around your day — most customers find a morning slot works best so power's back by lunchtime.
Do I need to be home?
Yes, ideally for the full duration. We need to confirm circuits as we identify them, and the final test sign-off needs the homeowner present.